Fired up a second season. This is exciting! I don't think i've ever managed to actually string two contiguous seasons of training together in any sport. This time 'round i'm going to try to keep the lifting up through at least the strength phase of the season. I cut it out fairly early last season because 1) i wanted to see if i was lugging about an extra ten lbs of unnecessary muscle, and 2) because it tends to jack with my other workouts. However, i didn't lose any appreciable weight by taking nearly five months off from lifting, and i fancy i won't lose much in the way of endurance workouts if i time it all properly.
Electronic bathroom scale this morning says i weigh 198.8 at 17.1% bf. That's up from what i've been weighing for the last few months, but i'm lighter than where i started last go. Diet has sucked for the last several weeks, so there's an easy correction.
And i have a real live goal for this season: Three Roofs at Golf. Solid 5.12a.
Now if i can just find a job that doesn't siphon my soul off...
Anyhow, i'm off to a decent start this season, and i've decided to go with the "intermediate" plan on the Rock Prodigy program. That'll give me a relatively shortened endurance phase (2 weeks of ARCing instead of 4) and a relatively lengthened strength and power phase (an extra week of each). This'll suit my goals better for one: the climbs at Golf are fairly short, but very sustained and powerful. But also i felt like i could have made more gains on the strength and power fronts last season without injury, so this arrangement is more inspiring to me. I might switch back to more endurance next season if i feel like that's a serious weak link, but this'll be a fun experiment in seeing how much pain my widdle nubbins can take. :))
Tuesday, December 9, 2014
Saturday, November 1, 2014
Clydesdale Bars
Thought i'd post up the not-particularly-scientific recipe for my energy bar. Just made a second batch last night to kinda quantify what i'd put in my first batch. It, too, worked out real nice-like. But there's still plenty of room to tweak things.
2 C dried fruit
This is the seriously unscientific bit. I used 7 figs (couldn't say why), and then filled in the rest with some mango, unsweetened cranberries (which take some searching for), papaya, apple, dates, and a few pumpkin seeds. I think i used unsweetened cherries instead of the cranberries first time round--and almonds 'stead of the punkin.
1/2 C cashew flour
I think the basic recipe (i kiped off'n pinterest or somesuch off which to spin my own evil design) called for 1/2 C whole raw cashews. But this is what i had, and it worked reasonably well. This, methinks, gives it some stick-together-ness.
3/4 C dried unsweetened coconut
Just do it. It's good.
1/3 C rolled oats
Pretty good if you're just fine with oats. I haven't yet tried this without oats, but i'd imagine it's doable. Might even stick together better without 'em.
3 Tbsp honey
Seems like aforementioned kiped recipe called for one Tbsp, but mine worked out to be a lot of otherwise non-cohesive ingredients, so i added 'til she stuck. Do what you think is best.
4 Tbsp oil
Again, i think the Ursache called for, like, one Tbsp, but i wanted more dry stuff in; and i like my oils. I used one of coconut, one of red palm (both melted), one of avacado, and one of olive.
2 Tbsp chia seed
They're high in omega 3s, and i like them. Kiped recipe called for hemp seeds, which are also quite tasty. I just didn't have 'em handy.
Salt
Because it's important. And to be clear, we're talking a pinch here.
1 Tsp turmeric
Because it belongs in really everything.
2 scoops protein powder
This is another point of lots of variability. I use Biotest, and it comes to 40g of protein. I think to get 20 or 30g of protein in every bar, you'd pretty much have to pack it together with guar gum or something. But then, i'm not counting the protein in the cashew flour, etc. I've used both vanilla and chocolate powder so far, and they both rocked.
Anyhow: First blend the fruits, then slowly add in everything else a little at a time. Mix it really well (and probably use pulse, 'cuz i just burned the plastic spindle off in my processor by leaving it running for 30 seconds straight). Then press it into a greased or parchment papered baking dish. Freeze for-- i dunno-- 30 mins or an hour ish. Then refrigerate.
So far mine've held up pretty well even at room temp for several hours. They get a li'l crumbly, but if you put 'em in a ziploc it doesn't matter much. They're fairly high in calories-- but then i reckon that depends on how large you cut 'em. But no problem making a meal replacement out of these.
2 C dried fruit
This is the seriously unscientific bit. I used 7 figs (couldn't say why), and then filled in the rest with some mango, unsweetened cranberries (which take some searching for), papaya, apple, dates, and a few pumpkin seeds. I think i used unsweetened cherries instead of the cranberries first time round--and almonds 'stead of the punkin.
1/2 C cashew flour
I think the basic recipe (i kiped off'n pinterest or somesuch off which to spin my own evil design) called for 1/2 C whole raw cashews. But this is what i had, and it worked reasonably well. This, methinks, gives it some stick-together-ness.
3/4 C dried unsweetened coconut
Just do it. It's good.
1/3 C rolled oats
Pretty good if you're just fine with oats. I haven't yet tried this without oats, but i'd imagine it's doable. Might even stick together better without 'em.
3 Tbsp honey
Seems like aforementioned kiped recipe called for one Tbsp, but mine worked out to be a lot of otherwise non-cohesive ingredients, so i added 'til she stuck. Do what you think is best.
4 Tbsp oil
Again, i think the Ursache called for, like, one Tbsp, but i wanted more dry stuff in; and i like my oils. I used one of coconut, one of red palm (both melted), one of avacado, and one of olive.
2 Tbsp chia seed
They're high in omega 3s, and i like them. Kiped recipe called for hemp seeds, which are also quite tasty. I just didn't have 'em handy.
Salt
Because it's important. And to be clear, we're talking a pinch here.
1 Tsp turmeric
Because it belongs in really everything.
2 scoops protein powder
This is another point of lots of variability. I use Biotest, and it comes to 40g of protein. I think to get 20 or 30g of protein in every bar, you'd pretty much have to pack it together with guar gum or something. But then, i'm not counting the protein in the cashew flour, etc. I've used both vanilla and chocolate powder so far, and they both rocked.
Anyhow: First blend the fruits, then slowly add in everything else a little at a time. Mix it really well (and probably use pulse, 'cuz i just burned the plastic spindle off in my processor by leaving it running for 30 seconds straight). Then press it into a greased or parchment papered baking dish. Freeze for-- i dunno-- 30 mins or an hour ish. Then refrigerate.
So far mine've held up pretty well even at room temp for several hours. They get a li'l crumbly, but if you put 'em in a ziploc it doesn't matter much. They're fairly high in calories-- but then i reckon that depends on how large you cut 'em. But no problem making a meal replacement out of these.
Friday, October 24, 2014
Winds of Change
Been a weird few weeks. Being laid off at work has been oddly stressful, which has not exactly done amazing things for the climbing. But it hasn't gone too poorly, notwithstanding. What happens next is in Lord God's hands-- and i have no doubt it could be something much better than the near-constant stress and anxiety we've had here. But it's certainly got me in an amorphous limbo for now.
On the climbing front, i'm coming very close to closing out this first season. Really haven't gotten to project any routes outside, and i'd very much like to get out a few times before calling it-- even if just to get a feel for some potential redpoints for next season. I feel like i'm climbing better and stronger than i ever have, but i'd have a hard time objectifying that. My endurance is definitely at a different level than before, but i'm also latching stuff i couldn't really consider three months ago.
I'd say dieting/weight-loss has been the most frustrating--and promising--part of this season. Weighed in this morning at 192.2 lbs. That's the lightest i've been in probably 17 years. That's encouraging. But i know i could still lose 15-20 lbs without even losing any muscle, and be perfectly healthy. And that is where i'm going to see a move to the next level in climbing. I just don't seriously see climbing v7 and up at over 190#.
On the other hand, i sorta feel like i'm getting the hang of this dieting deal: It sucks, and it's hard, and it just requires robotic scheduling and focus; but its possible and it works. What does boggle me, though, is how hard it is to just get to and maintain a healthy weight. I'm not exactly obese, but i can't seem to just get to 10% bodyfat-- let alone maintain it. At any rate, i feel like i'm moving very very slowly in the right direction, so i'm not too down about that; just seems so very much harder than it should-- so very much harder than it is for anyone else i climb with. I mean, i've finally got me below the 193 mark, but i feel ravenous all the freakin' time! I think i'll stop feeling so hungry all the time if i can hang on long enough to get used to it, get used to not having that extra handful of mixed nuts or cheese or whatever i tend to cram in my head after work. But it is so hard to convince me that the difference between losing and gaining is a matter of a couple hundred calories. Not exactly having a Big Mac to round things out before bed.
At any rate, i have seen progress (albeit small progress) on the Clydesdale status. And definitely having a structured program and some goals have made that possible. (I think for the coming seasons it'll be necessary to refine my goals from "climb harder than most everyone else in the world" to something a tad more specific.) And definitely seeing some real live gains in strength and power have helped inspire me not to have that occasional cookie. So even while i'm certain that i'm going to see my largest gains by losing weight, and that gains in strength at the same weight tend to be miniscule in relation to what i'd gain in strength simply by dropping weight, it has also been clear to me that seeing objective gains at a given weight seriously motivates me to do what it takes to lose-- it multiplies the gains in strength.
At the moment i feel ragged. I've done two comps in the last week and had a really-way-too-hard-but-awesome bouldering session in between. Comp last night i was just stale. Failed on moves i had wired. I'm actually looking forward to ending this season and starting back into more strength training (after rest, etc, of course).
In the meantime, i'm praying for the strength to not slob out whilst looking for a job and trying to sell a house. Keep some sanity without engaging in thermonuclear self-destruction: Prime short-term goal. And one for which i've never had any talent.
On the climbing front, i'm coming very close to closing out this first season. Really haven't gotten to project any routes outside, and i'd very much like to get out a few times before calling it-- even if just to get a feel for some potential redpoints for next season. I feel like i'm climbing better and stronger than i ever have, but i'd have a hard time objectifying that. My endurance is definitely at a different level than before, but i'm also latching stuff i couldn't really consider three months ago.
I'd say dieting/weight-loss has been the most frustrating--and promising--part of this season. Weighed in this morning at 192.2 lbs. That's the lightest i've been in probably 17 years. That's encouraging. But i know i could still lose 15-20 lbs without even losing any muscle, and be perfectly healthy. And that is where i'm going to see a move to the next level in climbing. I just don't seriously see climbing v7 and up at over 190#.
On the other hand, i sorta feel like i'm getting the hang of this dieting deal: It sucks, and it's hard, and it just requires robotic scheduling and focus; but its possible and it works. What does boggle me, though, is how hard it is to just get to and maintain a healthy weight. I'm not exactly obese, but i can't seem to just get to 10% bodyfat-- let alone maintain it. At any rate, i feel like i'm moving very very slowly in the right direction, so i'm not too down about that; just seems so very much harder than it should-- so very much harder than it is for anyone else i climb with. I mean, i've finally got me below the 193 mark, but i feel ravenous all the freakin' time! I think i'll stop feeling so hungry all the time if i can hang on long enough to get used to it, get used to not having that extra handful of mixed nuts or cheese or whatever i tend to cram in my head after work. But it is so hard to convince me that the difference between losing and gaining is a matter of a couple hundred calories. Not exactly having a Big Mac to round things out before bed.
At any rate, i have seen progress (albeit small progress) on the Clydesdale status. And definitely having a structured program and some goals have made that possible. (I think for the coming seasons it'll be necessary to refine my goals from "climb harder than most everyone else in the world" to something a tad more specific.) And definitely seeing some real live gains in strength and power have helped inspire me not to have that occasional cookie. So even while i'm certain that i'm going to see my largest gains by losing weight, and that gains in strength at the same weight tend to be miniscule in relation to what i'd gain in strength simply by dropping weight, it has also been clear to me that seeing objective gains at a given weight seriously motivates me to do what it takes to lose-- it multiplies the gains in strength.
At the moment i feel ragged. I've done two comps in the last week and had a really-way-too-hard-but-awesome bouldering session in between. Comp last night i was just stale. Failed on moves i had wired. I'm actually looking forward to ending this season and starting back into more strength training (after rest, etc, of course).
In the meantime, i'm praying for the strength to not slob out whilst looking for a job and trying to sell a house. Keep some sanity without engaging in thermonuclear self-destruction: Prime short-term goal. And one for which i've never had any talent.
Friday, September 19, 2014
Limit Bouldering
I'm gun' link to Mark Anderson's blog post on limit bouldering, so's i can easily access his list of hold sets for future reference. Also it's a mighty elucidating article on the subject.
Thursday, September 18, 2014
Campus'd
Probably a blessing i didn't have the "correct" large and medium rungs on my board. Did my workouts on routed 2 x 4s, which work out to be about 1/4" wider than the "large" Metolius rungs. So it wasn't as hard on my widdle pingers as it coulda been, but it allowed me to pay more attention to body position and the reaches. In other words, it was prolly more fun than it'd otherwise have been.
Even with only three campus sessions on my watered-down beginner's season, i've noticed gains. I'm really starting to get psyched to take this to some projects.
Now i gotta figure out how to do linked boulder circuits around the odd fact that none of the route setters at ye olde gym seem to be into setting problems between v3 and v8.
In fact, the more i cogitate on it, the cheaper those Moon holds seem...
Even with only three campus sessions on my watered-down beginner's season, i've noticed gains. I'm really starting to get psyched to take this to some projects.
Now i gotta figure out how to do linked boulder circuits around the odd fact that none of the route setters at ye olde gym seem to be into setting problems between v3 and v8.
In fact, the more i cogitate on it, the cheaper those Moon holds seem...
Wednesday, September 17, 2014
Moon Wall
Apparently there's nobody in the US licensed as seller of Moon holds. That is irritating beyond measure.
Went to order some Moon holds for the wall, and the cost would be about $150; only then it's $100 shipping. And apparently there's no way to get them from a supplier here. I don't know if that's because they stand to make a ton on shipping from the UK, or if they simply have no interest in selling holds to the states. Bizarre, really; but i suppose i've found out the hard way why Moon Walls are not more popular here. Neat idea, but when it costs more for holds for the wall than for a used helicopter to fly to the nearest crag, it's a bit prohibitive.
Very bummed am i.
Went to order some Moon holds for the wall, and the cost would be about $150; only then it's $100 shipping. And apparently there's no way to get them from a supplier here. I don't know if that's because they stand to make a ton on shipping from the UK, or if they simply have no interest in selling holds to the states. Bizarre, really; but i suppose i've found out the hard way why Moon Walls are not more popular here. Neat idea, but when it costs more for holds for the wall than for a used helicopter to fly to the nearest crag, it's a bit prohibitive.
Very bummed am i.
Friday, September 12, 2014
Down
Always downs... gotta live through 'em, and forget about 'em, and move on. Down at the moment is the feeling i'm training and trying to get "stronger" while the rest of our world is crumbling.
That's maybe a smidge over the top; but not by much, necessarily. I've gotta find another place to be. I don't know if that's just a job, or a move, or just what exactly, but my schedule has to change. She's going crazy. And i seem to have no control over any of that.
And i'm packing workouts into the cracks in the schedule.
And so every tiny thing that goes wrong, any little trough in what might be an upward-trending sine, and i feel crushed by failure-- like it's all a huge waste of time.
i guess this has been one of those weeks. I've actually seen some surprising upticks in my climbing-- even successes in my weight. But i've got off schedule by a bunch, and it squashes me. And that's stupid. It's not really the problem.
I just can't fix the real problem. Can't even quite figure out what it is.
That's maybe a smidge over the top; but not by much, necessarily. I've gotta find another place to be. I don't know if that's just a job, or a move, or just what exactly, but my schedule has to change. She's going crazy. And i seem to have no control over any of that.
And i'm packing workouts into the cracks in the schedule.
And so every tiny thing that goes wrong, any little trough in what might be an upward-trending sine, and i feel crushed by failure-- like it's all a huge waste of time.
i guess this has been one of those weeks. I've actually seen some surprising upticks in my climbing-- even successes in my weight. But i've got off schedule by a bunch, and it squashes me. And that's stupid. It's not really the problem.
I just can't fix the real problem. Can't even quite figure out what it is.
Thursday, September 4, 2014
Enough strength--- On to power!
The Trango hangboard turned out to be a very good investment. It's a prouder, chalkier, better-loved war machine now; and i've made some way happy progress. As mentioned in that other place, i've added from 10 to 15 lbs of resistance to all but one or two grips worked. Feel pretty good about that, even if i know it's all coming from neural awakening after having never used my muscles before. I could certainly wish i'd started this 8 or 10 years ago, but i'll take it. Finished strong and no injuries.
Now comes the real live potential injury: Campusing. Gotta say i'm a li'l intimidated--- but i'm also way excited. If i make it through the next 2.5 weeks without an injury, i should see a new level of climbing. WAY psyched!
As it's falling, the first campus work out is this saturday. But i work until after the gym is closed, so i won't be able to do a warm up of any kind. So i'm going to try to move it to friday. That's kinda pushing it after this HB workout, but we'll see how it goes.
Also it's time to start dieting in earnest. Weighed in at 198.0 just now. That's fer shur better'n 202, but i really haven't dropped any appreciable weight since starting. So on the one hand, that means i'm just straight-up, legitimately stronger than i was at first (and the HB gains are not just from dropping lard); but i also know my biggest and sickest gains're gunna come from losing weight.
I do not have the hang of this. I absolutely do not know how to lose weight. In fact, i wish i could find a reliable trainer to make me diet-- that'd be gold. Basic vague principles of dieting don't seem to do it for me. In other words, i can't just change what i'm eating and expect the lbs to flee: i'm gun' hafta count calories, and i suck at that. But i do think it'll be an easier process if i go old-school body-builder and cut out the alcohol and go with a super skeletal diet. If i can maintain the keg living on water, chicken and tuna, then i'm gonna check my thyroid.
Now comes the real live potential injury: Campusing. Gotta say i'm a li'l intimidated--- but i'm also way excited. If i make it through the next 2.5 weeks without an injury, i should see a new level of climbing. WAY psyched!
As it's falling, the first campus work out is this saturday. But i work until after the gym is closed, so i won't be able to do a warm up of any kind. So i'm going to try to move it to friday. That's kinda pushing it after this HB workout, but we'll see how it goes.
Also it's time to start dieting in earnest. Weighed in at 198.0 just now. That's fer shur better'n 202, but i really haven't dropped any appreciable weight since starting. So on the one hand, that means i'm just straight-up, legitimately stronger than i was at first (and the HB gains are not just from dropping lard); but i also know my biggest and sickest gains're gunna come from losing weight.
I do not have the hang of this. I absolutely do not know how to lose weight. In fact, i wish i could find a reliable trainer to make me diet-- that'd be gold. Basic vague principles of dieting don't seem to do it for me. In other words, i can't just change what i'm eating and expect the lbs to flee: i'm gun' hafta count calories, and i suck at that. But i do think it'll be an easier process if i go old-school body-builder and cut out the alcohol and go with a super skeletal diet. If i can maintain the keg living on water, chicken and tuna, then i'm gonna check my thyroid.
Wednesday, August 13, 2014
Pimp my hang
Got the new Trango board up last night. I must say it rocketh. I was pretty impressed when i first beheld it and caressed its textures; but i finally put up a proper workout on it tonight, and it----well, it actually made me wanna do more workouts on it.
Very interesting sensation. I have several hangboards, and as far as i know they're all designed by serious (if not professional) climbers. But after working out on this thing, i've begun to wonder if other designers put any thought at all into their boards. It's practical: all the grips are there, and there're no What-is-this-hole-some-kinda-pencil-holder? superfluous wastes of real estate; it's comfy: i left off and none of my nubbins were bleeding; and my hands/forearms feel like tortured meatloaf after my workout-- exactly as they're supposed to feel.
Also, per the training plan, i had to take-- in some cases, a bunch-- of weight off. From the obvious point of view, this was somewhat depressing. But i can see how the board could move you, and with you, from reasonably strong to reallyfriggin'monsterscary strong.
I did one workout last week on three different boards. It make me totally dread doing a second. But this was a good time. To be fair, i also downloaded a timer app so i don't have to constantly watch a kitchen timer, and i adjusted my pulley system so that it's easier to access and fits right. But i came in tonight reticent to do a workout, and now i'm actually amped to do more-- i can imagine making a proper habit outta this.
Strong work Anderson bros.
Saturday, August 9, 2014
Die Mauer
Behold: she is done. Or will be once i get a climbable route up on it. This thing is a widdy bit intimidating. And i'm gunna hafta get me some fat-guy holds.
Thursday, July 31, 2014
Wall Progress
So: it's getting there. Still hafta pour concrete under the middle two legs, then put the kick board back on. Also gunna put some triangular plywood supports on the sides. Then it's just setting routes. :)
Lip's about 10.5' off the ground (Just over 13' of plywood, kick plate included), and 8' wide. Actually rigged a pretty impressive block n tackle system to hoist it without killing m'self, cuz i had to do all the actual lifting by hand. Guessing somewhat wildly, i'd fancy it weighs around 300#.
Coupla hours of work, and she'll be ready. Looking very forward to using this thing--with much the same intensity i'm not looking forward to using the campus board.
Lip's about 10.5' off the ground (Just over 13' of plywood, kick plate included), and 8' wide. Actually rigged a pretty impressive block n tackle system to hoist it without killing m'self, cuz i had to do all the actual lifting by hand. Guessing somewhat wildly, i'd fancy it weighs around 300#.
Coupla hours of work, and she'll be ready. Looking very forward to using this thing--with much the same intensity i'm not looking forward to using the campus board.
Tuesday, July 29, 2014
Gains
I'm into week 4 on the season. Did three sets of ARCin' at 30 mins per today.
If i make it through this week without an injury, i'ma feel perty happy. This has served to show me i'm quite aged and quite portly. But i'm making it. And my endurance is getting way better.
I've made very little headway on the weight loss front. Still hanging just under 200#. I'm not doing so well with this one-beer-per-night deal. But i'm not too far off the wagon either.
Strength phase is coming next, and i'm definitely looking forward to that. The Moonwall is neeeeearly finished, and that will be very useful. That thing is flippin' intimidating. But i can see some really good workouts on that thing. And i'll be able to warmup for the hard stuff without having to go in to the gym.
Okay: more ARCing tomorrow. Two more days. My hands feel so ancient.
This can be done.
If i make it through this week without an injury, i'ma feel perty happy. This has served to show me i'm quite aged and quite portly. But i'm making it. And my endurance is getting way better.
I've made very little headway on the weight loss front. Still hanging just under 200#. I'm not doing so well with this one-beer-per-night deal. But i'm not too far off the wagon either.
Strength phase is coming next, and i'm definitely looking forward to that. The Moonwall is neeeeearly finished, and that will be very useful. That thing is flippin' intimidating. But i can see some really good workouts on that thing. And i'll be able to warmup for the hard stuff without having to go in to the gym.
Okay: more ARCing tomorrow. Two more days. My hands feel so ancient.
This can be done.
Monday, July 14, 2014
Week 2
Right then: Headlong into week numma Two. This is gunna be a rough one. Tues and Thurs are the only days i'm going to be able to squish workouts in around work (at least at the climbgym), but i'm planning to squish. Two ARC workouts this week-- both 2 sets of 30mins. Cannot foresee getting in an iron workout, and that's a bummer, cuz it'll have me almost a month out from my last. Also, it's tricky to see getting in the "outdoor mileage" part of the week, which i consider very important. I'm half considering writing this week off as a wash, and doing this week next week; but i ain't gunna. At least, i ain't gunna's long as i get in the two ARC seshes. I'd really like to stay on goal: peak around the first of October. And again, if this season doesn't go without a hitch, i don't care. I've hinged too many seasons of training on flawless performance phases, and then've gotten burned out when i fail. And that's stupid.
Above is the Moon board. I think it's gunna look pretty nice all said and done. I was really hoping to get 'er done this last weekend so i'd have something to play on with this week's time constraints, but it didn't happen. It is very very close though. So if any among you, my readership of exact-zero, would like to get me a supertrick Christmas present, i'd dig some Moon Schoolroom holds or some Atomik Systems. :)
And to fill in blank, i'm also going to take up some sort of Tabata-style workouts. Gotta get me a sled built. And i guess i can cry about ordering a buncha T-shirts instead of a barbell. But they are sweet shirts.
Wednesday, July 9, 2014
Meh
Starting this off a li'l shakily, but i'm basically on track. Plan calls for "Outdoor Mileage" on saturdays and sundays. That's generally hard for me to pull off cuz it's very time consuming, and the gym is closed on weekends. Have, as a gift from God, been able to go up for a day the last couple of weekends, and i do gotta say that's been amazing for getting my head back into climbing. Real rock is so totally different from plastic--very different techniques.
Anyhow, got in some hard routes (4 in fact, and with much hanging) on friday. Then got in the first ARC sesh on monday. That was 1x 30mins and 1x 20 mins--10 mins less than i wanted (time constraints), but 10 mins more than the program called for. So i'd like to think i'm a lil ahead of the curve.
Then yesterday i did a few routes, including a project that went at around 5.11+/12-.
Tomorrow calls for a second ARC session, and i'll technically have all the workouts in for this week. But it's a lot of climbing to fit in the two routes sessions per week: takes a lotta time. But i can already tell it's helping my climbing.
On the diet front things are a bit more haphazard. I'd actually gained a few lbs over the weekend cuz of holiday crap eating, and i'm almost back to baseline from that. Main thing is i've committed to limiting myself to one drink/day through most of the training phase with the idea of cutting alcohol out completely when performance phase comes 'round. But i had three glasses o wine watching a movie last night. That is unacceptable. Can't say i did any damage, excepting that i didn't sleep very well---but it's week one. Methinks i can drum up a bit more discipline than that.
Anyhow, there's my confessional; and i'm otherwise not too far off track. All said and done, i'm on track for a pretty satisfactory first week. And the moon wall's almost done. Need one solid work session to get 'er up.
Anyhow, got in some hard routes (4 in fact, and with much hanging) on friday. Then got in the first ARC sesh on monday. That was 1x 30mins and 1x 20 mins--10 mins less than i wanted (time constraints), but 10 mins more than the program called for. So i'd like to think i'm a lil ahead of the curve.
Then yesterday i did a few routes, including a project that went at around 5.11+/12-.
Tomorrow calls for a second ARC session, and i'll technically have all the workouts in for this week. But it's a lot of climbing to fit in the two routes sessions per week: takes a lotta time. But i can already tell it's helping my climbing.
On the diet front things are a bit more haphazard. I'd actually gained a few lbs over the weekend cuz of holiday crap eating, and i'm almost back to baseline from that. Main thing is i've committed to limiting myself to one drink/day through most of the training phase with the idea of cutting alcohol out completely when performance phase comes 'round. But i had three glasses o wine watching a movie last night. That is unacceptable. Can't say i did any damage, excepting that i didn't sleep very well---but it's week one. Methinks i can drum up a bit more discipline than that.
Anyhow, there's my confessional; and i'm otherwise not too far off track. All said and done, i'm on track for a pretty satisfactory first week. And the moon wall's almost done. Need one solid work session to get 'er up.
Monday, July 7, 2014
Starting (Fluffy)
I guess i've more or less started my season's program. Feels a little wishy-washy to say it that way (since i've been jonesing for Start Day for a month or so now), but i've been oddly squeezed for time lately, and've had a serious problem fitting full workouts in. But if i don't start, i'll just keep pushing it back forever. So if i suck it up this first round, then them's the breaks, but i gotta start. I can iron things out this round, and start getting things nailed down and polished next go. There's going to be a lot of that anyhow, dialing weights in, and scrunching warmups in before hangboard seshes, etc.
On that note, i'm getting reasonably close to finishing the Moon wall. That'll help a ton with warmups, as well as Limit Bouldering and Ladders.
Starting a season off at 202lbs. That's up 3 or 4 lbs up from where i've been hanging. I'm trying not to get depressed about it--actually ate pasta (in addition to a truckload of other grainy crap) through the weekend, so it's not too surprising. And it's appropriate that i should start as a proper Clydesdale.
Definitely have plenty of room to cut some lard. Initially i'm planning to cut most of the happy carbs outta my diet. There's a li'l of that i can discard without thinking about it too hard. But i'm also planning to cut to a single brew per night. i have a feeling i pack in more calories there than i'd be willing to own. i 'spect if i can just make my diet way boring and up the exercising amperage a notch i'll lose a good stone.
Second phase of the plan is the actual "Diet". That'll start around the Power-Enduro phase; and there i'm planning to cut out all the ETOH and seriously count calories. If i can make some real progress weight-wise without starving for it, i think that'll be very motivating to starve for it come Performance time.
On that note, i'm getting reasonably close to finishing the Moon wall. That'll help a ton with warmups, as well as Limit Bouldering and Ladders.
Starting a season off at 202lbs. That's up 3 or 4 lbs up from where i've been hanging. I'm trying not to get depressed about it--actually ate pasta (in addition to a truckload of other grainy crap) through the weekend, so it's not too surprising. And it's appropriate that i should start as a proper Clydesdale.
Definitely have plenty of room to cut some lard. Initially i'm planning to cut most of the happy carbs outta my diet. There's a li'l of that i can discard without thinking about it too hard. But i'm also planning to cut to a single brew per night. i have a feeling i pack in more calories there than i'd be willing to own. i 'spect if i can just make my diet way boring and up the exercising amperage a notch i'll lose a good stone.
Second phase of the plan is the actual "Diet". That'll start around the Power-Enduro phase; and there i'm planning to cut out all the ETOH and seriously count calories. If i can make some real progress weight-wise without starving for it, i think that'll be very motivating to starve for it come Performance time.
Friday, July 4, 2014
Routin'
Climbed 4 routes, all in the 5.11 range. All in pure hangdog style. But on real rock. Couldn't've been a prettier day for it. Showed me how far I have to go. And I think a lot of my issues today were just with getting my head on for being outside. But then again, I did have trouble carrying suitcases in from the car afterwards.
Wednesday, July 2, 2014
Holding Pattern
Haven't done much last couple of weeks. Climbed a bit on some real rock on sunday. Climbed a few more routes at the gym on monday.
Wanted to start the season fer real this week, but it's been a li'l too weird with the holidays and family etc. Looking like next week. At any rate, my right ring finger's been tweaky, and it won't mind the rest. Hoping to get a propa workout in tomorrow.
On a bright note, the moon wall is looking pretty good. Might actually get 'er up and climbed on this weekend. I'm a li'l amped about that.
Wanted to start the season fer real this week, but it's been a li'l too weird with the holidays and family etc. Looking like next week. At any rate, my right ring finger's been tweaky, and it won't mind the rest. Hoping to get a propa workout in tomorrow.
On a bright note, the moon wall is looking pretty good. Might actually get 'er up and climbed on this weekend. I'm a li'l amped about that.
Tuesday, June 24, 2014
Pecca fortiter
Today marked the one month mark without cheese. So i had some. Came home and she had a pizza, so i had a slice of pizza (with extra cheese melted on, as otherwise it'd've been a stale slice of gross bread), and then i made a salad and put cheese on that. Then i had a spoonful of Baskin' Robbins pb& chocolate ice cream. Now i'm having a beer.
It was all kinda disappointing and anticlimactic. Excepting the beer: Hop Rising from Squatters is darn good.
I'd guess abstaining from cheese for a goodly span has been educational. I really wasn't sure i could do it--never had before really. Thought it might be the key to weight loss for me. And while i still think it's gunna end up being important to cut down on from my usual Sam's Club quota, i didn't lose an ounce by cutting it out. Just managed to replace the calories with other stuff--mostly nuts i expect. Really been fairly strict with food quality and quantity otherwise.
And i am getting in better shape. Ramping up to start a training season in about another week, and i've been doing a lot of endurance stuff. Did two 30 min ARC sessions today, and it felt much easier than last week.
But i know that weight loss is going to be the crux if i'ma see just how hard i can climb; and i'm afraid that's going to involve counting calories. But i'm still over 17% bodyfat, and that's a lotta lard; and it ain't (apparently) gunna go away by making dietary tweaks and substitutions.
Bleh.
But then, hiking 5.12 will feel very, very, terribly nice.
It was all kinda disappointing and anticlimactic. Excepting the beer: Hop Rising from Squatters is darn good.
I'd guess abstaining from cheese for a goodly span has been educational. I really wasn't sure i could do it--never had before really. Thought it might be the key to weight loss for me. And while i still think it's gunna end up being important to cut down on from my usual Sam's Club quota, i didn't lose an ounce by cutting it out. Just managed to replace the calories with other stuff--mostly nuts i expect. Really been fairly strict with food quality and quantity otherwise.
And i am getting in better shape. Ramping up to start a training season in about another week, and i've been doing a lot of endurance stuff. Did two 30 min ARC sessions today, and it felt much easier than last week.
But i know that weight loss is going to be the crux if i'ma see just how hard i can climb; and i'm afraid that's going to involve counting calories. But i'm still over 17% bodyfat, and that's a lotta lard; and it ain't (apparently) gunna go away by making dietary tweaks and substitutions.
Bleh.
But then, hiking 5.12 will feel very, very, terribly nice.
Sunday, June 22, 2014
Campus Board
Finally got the campus board done. i'm looking forward to using it. I'm looking forward to not looking like a n00b on it. I'm looking forward to seeing what it does to my climbing toward the end of the season.
Moon board's coming. I'll post pics up when that's done.
Friday, June 13, 2014
dead
Gotta admit: i'm in a quandary concerning dead lifts. They're the only real lift i'm any good at, and in reality super-heavy deads don't contribute to the greater goal. And even though i really believe they have a role (and i really don't wanna give up my hopes and dreams for 'em just yet) i don't know where to fit 'em in my program. Climbing-wise everything else fits less problematically into the program. There's a Base Fitness bit, a Strength phase (where, as you'd expect, most of the hypertrophic sorts of exercises should occur), a Power phase where you demand fast-twitch, mass-recruitment sorts of things out of all that muscle, a Power-Endurance phase where you take all that recruitment out for marathons of pain, and a Performance phase which is what you've done it all for. And it's understood through most of it all that you're still doing strengthy stuff--working core and large muscles, etc.
But it's difficult to justify a constant, non-macro-cycled 5/3/1 workout; and more difficult still when i totally know it's cutting into the quality of all my other workouts.
All that to say i didn't do 5/5/5 today. And that i wouldn't mind locking out 600 lbs.
But it's difficult to justify a constant, non-macro-cycled 5/3/1 workout; and more difficult still when i totally know it's cutting into the quality of all my other workouts.
All that to say i didn't do 5/5/5 today. And that i wouldn't mind locking out 600 lbs.
Wednesday, June 11, 2014
"There is now a level zero" --Massa Shifu
So there it is: Starting point. 200.5#. 17.5% body fat. I guess that's sorta encouraging 'cuz it means i really could lose 25 lbs of fat without dropping a gram of muscle. Probably couldn't <i>realistically</i> do that, but i could fer shur drop a stone's worth o' lard without losing my deadlift.
At the moment, i'm trying to coax my diet/metabolism in that direction. I've been off cheese for over two weeks now. Honestly, it seems to be doing nothing. Thing is, i think i'm unconsciously replacing those calories with other stuff--probably nuts. That measurement was taken last week, and i weighed in this morning at 199.5, and (by my EI bathroom scale) 17.5% BF. So no ground gained.
But that's ok. This is by far the longest i've ever gone without cheese, and that's something. I honestly don't think cheese is the problem, or is particularly bad; only i really need to know i can live without it, even if it's temporary. It's made me realize how easy it is to grab a piece when i'm hungry, and that i don't really have another go-to snack when i'm dying off. Trying to figure out how to fix that. Main thing is i feel like i'm at least shining some light on some tenebrous hidden corners of my diet, even if i haven't entirely gotten a firm grip on it yet. If i can cut out the cheese, nuts, sugar and booze all at the same time, i might actually see some meaningful results.
On a different note, if i want to peak around the front of October, i'll need to start the actual training plan about the very beginning of July. That means i still have a couple of weeks to go before it gets real. So i am trying to get as many enduro routes in as possible so i'll be sorta fit for the Base Endurance bit of the plan. I think i'm more worried about the base stuff than i am about the rest of the training. It's supposed to be the easy bit, but it calls for moderate sessions (i.e. just below lactate threshold) of, e.g., traversing for 20-30 mins without stopping, then resting and doing it again. That's the same thing they prescribe for active rest days. Sounds neato, but i don't know if i can stay on a staircase for 30mins without dropping. But i'm getting better.
I've (temporarily) stopped production on the moon wall, mostly cuz we're broke. Maybe next paycheck. But we're thinking mighty seriously bout moving in the nearish future, so it does make hauling a few hundred extra pounds of plywood unattractive. But i think i'll build it anyhow if i can. Super amped about it, and that's worth the $150 or so in materials, even if i end up leaving it behind.
Friday, May 30, 2014
The Hard Part
I've had my training fire re-stoked since purchasing this wee book, and it's inspired this blog. One of the first takeaways i've acquired is that i need some meaningful goals. Now, i've known this for some time, but having had no realistic vehicle for getting there (i.e. a coherent training plan) it's never felt tangible. I've known for ever that my weight is a huge obstacle to my climbing, but i'm just not a small dude. i can be very disciplined for a while, but with no method to correlate weight loss and performance, i've never managed both at the same time. That is to say, i just keep trying to climb harder and harder (which i've managed with slow, stuttering results) and hope that when the magical time comes and i happen upon the perfect diet, i'll find a way to drop 20 or 30lbs and keep it off, at which point i'll nearly instantly be a number grade or so the better climber.
I can't say it's a bad plan, actually; only it's lacking an engine. The "climbing harder and harder" bit is terribly vague. As the Anderson bros point out (in different words, and with much science for underpinning), you can't convince yourself you've gotten from point A to point B if you can't remember where point A was, and don't know what point B might look like. And unlike weight lifting (and most other sports) climbing "difficulty" or "resistance" etc, is very tricky to pin down and gauge.
A second problem with just climbing constantly harder is that you can't. You either periodize or you break down, and your body periodizes for you. That's essentially what i've been doing for the last 7 or 8 years. It works, but it ain't optimal. Only i've never been exposed to the climbing equivalent of a training season. What, even, would that be broken down into? There're routes for building endurance, and there's bouldering for strength/power. Hard to mold that into a proper season.
The Training Manual ostensibly solves all this, and in such an absurdly simple way that i'm a li'l irritated i didn't think of it myself. First it suggests a pretty formulaic 17ish week season. That's broken down into a base fitness phase, a strength phase, a power phase, a power-endurance phase, and a performance phase, followed by prescribed rest. Simple enough. That could translate almost straight into lifting or triathlon.
The neat bit is what it breaks down into: base fitness is (indeed) routes--lots of sustained moderate climbing. No getting hurt here. Strength is hangboarding. Power is campusing and very very very hard bouldering. Actually very little climbing in these two phases. PE is boulder linkups. Then you perform and go send yer dream proj(s). Easy peasy.
The goal just now is to make it through a first season without injury. I've built a campus board. I have the tools. Now to start.....and that's killin' me! With 14+/- week training season before the bu'ness starts, i'd really need to start this in earnest around the end of June, unless i wanna peak in August. And October sounds way cooler. Until then, i'm trying to whip my chunky butt into shape to start training properly.
I can't say it's a bad plan, actually; only it's lacking an engine. The "climbing harder and harder" bit is terribly vague. As the Anderson bros point out (in different words, and with much science for underpinning), you can't convince yourself you've gotten from point A to point B if you can't remember where point A was, and don't know what point B might look like. And unlike weight lifting (and most other sports) climbing "difficulty" or "resistance" etc, is very tricky to pin down and gauge.
A second problem with just climbing constantly harder is that you can't. You either periodize or you break down, and your body periodizes for you. That's essentially what i've been doing for the last 7 or 8 years. It works, but it ain't optimal. Only i've never been exposed to the climbing equivalent of a training season. What, even, would that be broken down into? There're routes for building endurance, and there's bouldering for strength/power. Hard to mold that into a proper season.
The Training Manual ostensibly solves all this, and in such an absurdly simple way that i'm a li'l irritated i didn't think of it myself. First it suggests a pretty formulaic 17ish week season. That's broken down into a base fitness phase, a strength phase, a power phase, a power-endurance phase, and a performance phase, followed by prescribed rest. Simple enough. That could translate almost straight into lifting or triathlon.
The neat bit is what it breaks down into: base fitness is (indeed) routes--lots of sustained moderate climbing. No getting hurt here. Strength is hangboarding. Power is campusing and very very very hard bouldering. Actually very little climbing in these two phases. PE is boulder linkups. Then you perform and go send yer dream proj(s). Easy peasy.
The goal just now is to make it through a first season without injury. I've built a campus board. I have the tools. Now to start.....and that's killin' me! With 14+/- week training season before the bu'ness starts, i'd really need to start this in earnest around the end of June, unless i wanna peak in August. And October sounds way cooler. Until then, i'm trying to whip my chunky butt into shape to start training properly.
Friday, May 23, 2014
Big Ol'
If there were such a thing as a Clydesdale category in climbing, i'd rock it. Weighed in at 200 and change this morning. Having been around a lot of climbers over the last decade, i gather that my weight is sub-optimal (and kinda rare) for an obsessive climber. There have been short moments when i've weighed substantially under 14 stones, but i had a flaccid skeleton jutting out of a triathlete's trunk. Weight has always been a problem.
Presently, i haven't much weight to lose from my legs; but i'd
guess and say i'm hovering around 15% bodyfat--meaning i could slough 25lbs
without courting any danger of being "ripped" or sacrificing muscle.
I just don't quite know how.
And that’s not to say I haven’t tried. I’ve ground through every
diet fad thought of, and the thing is i haven’t simply experienced the standard
disappointing result of losing a bit, then gaining it back; i tend not to lose any substantial weight. Now, by the
calorie-deficit-equals-weight-loss equation that means i’ve either gotten perfectly
adequate maintenance calories on a 1,400cal/day liquid supp diet, or i’ve
managed to cheat and add an extra thousand calories or so in chia seeds. And
while i’m occasionally convinced that my body’d sooner give up brain tissue
than central adiposity, i suspect that i’m secretly an undisciplined, low-down,
dirty cheater.
Currently, i’ve adopted a quasi-paleo sort of diet, and i will say
it’s made a difference. I had got up to 215, and just by cutting out the grains
and garbage i’ve dropped 15 or so. And it wasn’t very hard. But i’ve plateaued.
I get that it should be hard for some of us to drop that last 5 or 10 pounds to
hit optimal cranking weight, but i don’t think it should hurt much to stay at
sub-equine training weight. How to get to the next level?
That’s what this blog’ll cover. My sport is climbing, and my clock
is ticking. I only have a few years left (assuming God allows me that) to make
whatever big gains i can make before i’m too old and’m fighting just to
maintain. I’m going to have to become methodical in training, serious about
rest days, picky about projects, detailed about goals, jealous about three day
weekends, and i may have to give up cheese. And i really, really
like cheese.
I have another board where i can post up weights and numbers, etc; the plan for this is motivation. I want to separate goals, the tic list, and my blathering from the numbers. Maybe this way i can keep 'em both a bit clearer.
Right now i redpoint v5 and the rare v6, and bouldery 5.12. I think it's reasonable to send v8 and 5.13 before i'm over the hill. There're the vague, long-terms. Now for the training.
I have another board where i can post up weights and numbers, etc; the plan for this is motivation. I want to separate goals, the tic list, and my blathering from the numbers. Maybe this way i can keep 'em both a bit clearer.
Right now i redpoint v5 and the rare v6, and bouldery 5.12. I think it's reasonable to send v8 and 5.13 before i'm over the hill. There're the vague, long-terms. Now for the training.
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