Thought i'd post up the not-particularly-scientific recipe for my energy bar. Just made a second batch last night to kinda quantify what i'd put in my first batch. It, too, worked out real nice-like. But there's still plenty of room to tweak things.
2 C dried fruit
This is the seriously unscientific bit. I used 7 figs (couldn't say why), and then filled in the rest with some mango, unsweetened cranberries (which take some searching for), papaya, apple, dates, and a few pumpkin seeds. I think i used unsweetened cherries instead of the cranberries first time round--and almonds 'stead of the punkin.
1/2 C cashew flour
I think the basic recipe (i kiped off'n pinterest or somesuch off which to spin my own evil design) called for 1/2 C whole raw cashews. But this is what i had, and it worked reasonably well. This, methinks, gives it some stick-together-ness.
3/4 C dried unsweetened coconut
Just do it. It's good.
1/3 C rolled oats
Pretty good if you're just fine with oats. I haven't yet tried this without oats, but i'd imagine it's doable. Might even stick together better without 'em.
3 Tbsp honey
Seems like aforementioned kiped recipe called for one Tbsp, but mine worked out to be a lot of otherwise non-cohesive ingredients, so i added 'til she stuck. Do what you think is best.
4 Tbsp oil
Again, i think the Ursache called for, like, one Tbsp, but i wanted more dry stuff in; and i like my oils. I used one of coconut, one of red palm (both melted), one of avacado, and one of olive.
2 Tbsp chia seed
They're high in omega 3s, and i like them. Kiped recipe called for hemp seeds, which are also quite tasty. I just didn't have 'em handy.
Salt
Because it's important. And to be clear, we're talking a pinch here.
1 Tsp turmeric
Because it belongs in really everything.
2 scoops protein powder
This is another point of lots of variability. I use Biotest, and it comes to 40g of protein. I think to get 20 or 30g of protein in every bar, you'd pretty much have to pack it together with guar gum or something. But then, i'm not counting the protein in the cashew flour, etc. I've used both vanilla and chocolate powder so far, and they both rocked.
Anyhow: First blend the fruits, then slowly add in everything else a little at a time. Mix it really well (and probably use pulse, 'cuz i just burned the plastic spindle off in my processor by leaving it running for 30 seconds straight). Then press it into a greased or parchment papered baking dish. Freeze for-- i dunno-- 30 mins or an hour ish. Then refrigerate.
So far mine've held up pretty well even at room temp for several hours. They get a li'l crumbly, but if you put 'em in a ziploc it doesn't matter much. They're fairly high in calories-- but then i reckon that depends on how large you cut 'em. But no problem making a meal replacement out of these.
Saturday, November 1, 2014
Friday, October 24, 2014
Winds of Change
Been a weird few weeks. Being laid off at work has been oddly stressful, which has not exactly done amazing things for the climbing. But it hasn't gone too poorly, notwithstanding. What happens next is in Lord God's hands-- and i have no doubt it could be something much better than the near-constant stress and anxiety we've had here. But it's certainly got me in an amorphous limbo for now.
On the climbing front, i'm coming very close to closing out this first season. Really haven't gotten to project any routes outside, and i'd very much like to get out a few times before calling it-- even if just to get a feel for some potential redpoints for next season. I feel like i'm climbing better and stronger than i ever have, but i'd have a hard time objectifying that. My endurance is definitely at a different level than before, but i'm also latching stuff i couldn't really consider three months ago.
I'd say dieting/weight-loss has been the most frustrating--and promising--part of this season. Weighed in this morning at 192.2 lbs. That's the lightest i've been in probably 17 years. That's encouraging. But i know i could still lose 15-20 lbs without even losing any muscle, and be perfectly healthy. And that is where i'm going to see a move to the next level in climbing. I just don't seriously see climbing v7 and up at over 190#.
On the other hand, i sorta feel like i'm getting the hang of this dieting deal: It sucks, and it's hard, and it just requires robotic scheduling and focus; but its possible and it works. What does boggle me, though, is how hard it is to just get to and maintain a healthy weight. I'm not exactly obese, but i can't seem to just get to 10% bodyfat-- let alone maintain it. At any rate, i feel like i'm moving very very slowly in the right direction, so i'm not too down about that; just seems so very much harder than it should-- so very much harder than it is for anyone else i climb with. I mean, i've finally got me below the 193 mark, but i feel ravenous all the freakin' time! I think i'll stop feeling so hungry all the time if i can hang on long enough to get used to it, get used to not having that extra handful of mixed nuts or cheese or whatever i tend to cram in my head after work. But it is so hard to convince me that the difference between losing and gaining is a matter of a couple hundred calories. Not exactly having a Big Mac to round things out before bed.
At any rate, i have seen progress (albeit small progress) on the Clydesdale status. And definitely having a structured program and some goals have made that possible. (I think for the coming seasons it'll be necessary to refine my goals from "climb harder than most everyone else in the world" to something a tad more specific.) And definitely seeing some real live gains in strength and power have helped inspire me not to have that occasional cookie. So even while i'm certain that i'm going to see my largest gains by losing weight, and that gains in strength at the same weight tend to be miniscule in relation to what i'd gain in strength simply by dropping weight, it has also been clear to me that seeing objective gains at a given weight seriously motivates me to do what it takes to lose-- it multiplies the gains in strength.
At the moment i feel ragged. I've done two comps in the last week and had a really-way-too-hard-but-awesome bouldering session in between. Comp last night i was just stale. Failed on moves i had wired. I'm actually looking forward to ending this season and starting back into more strength training (after rest, etc, of course).
In the meantime, i'm praying for the strength to not slob out whilst looking for a job and trying to sell a house. Keep some sanity without engaging in thermonuclear self-destruction: Prime short-term goal. And one for which i've never had any talent.
On the climbing front, i'm coming very close to closing out this first season. Really haven't gotten to project any routes outside, and i'd very much like to get out a few times before calling it-- even if just to get a feel for some potential redpoints for next season. I feel like i'm climbing better and stronger than i ever have, but i'd have a hard time objectifying that. My endurance is definitely at a different level than before, but i'm also latching stuff i couldn't really consider three months ago.
I'd say dieting/weight-loss has been the most frustrating--and promising--part of this season. Weighed in this morning at 192.2 lbs. That's the lightest i've been in probably 17 years. That's encouraging. But i know i could still lose 15-20 lbs without even losing any muscle, and be perfectly healthy. And that is where i'm going to see a move to the next level in climbing. I just don't seriously see climbing v7 and up at over 190#.
On the other hand, i sorta feel like i'm getting the hang of this dieting deal: It sucks, and it's hard, and it just requires robotic scheduling and focus; but its possible and it works. What does boggle me, though, is how hard it is to just get to and maintain a healthy weight. I'm not exactly obese, but i can't seem to just get to 10% bodyfat-- let alone maintain it. At any rate, i feel like i'm moving very very slowly in the right direction, so i'm not too down about that; just seems so very much harder than it should-- so very much harder than it is for anyone else i climb with. I mean, i've finally got me below the 193 mark, but i feel ravenous all the freakin' time! I think i'll stop feeling so hungry all the time if i can hang on long enough to get used to it, get used to not having that extra handful of mixed nuts or cheese or whatever i tend to cram in my head after work. But it is so hard to convince me that the difference between losing and gaining is a matter of a couple hundred calories. Not exactly having a Big Mac to round things out before bed.
At any rate, i have seen progress (albeit small progress) on the Clydesdale status. And definitely having a structured program and some goals have made that possible. (I think for the coming seasons it'll be necessary to refine my goals from "climb harder than most everyone else in the world" to something a tad more specific.) And definitely seeing some real live gains in strength and power have helped inspire me not to have that occasional cookie. So even while i'm certain that i'm going to see my largest gains by losing weight, and that gains in strength at the same weight tend to be miniscule in relation to what i'd gain in strength simply by dropping weight, it has also been clear to me that seeing objective gains at a given weight seriously motivates me to do what it takes to lose-- it multiplies the gains in strength.
At the moment i feel ragged. I've done two comps in the last week and had a really-way-too-hard-but-awesome bouldering session in between. Comp last night i was just stale. Failed on moves i had wired. I'm actually looking forward to ending this season and starting back into more strength training (after rest, etc, of course).
In the meantime, i'm praying for the strength to not slob out whilst looking for a job and trying to sell a house. Keep some sanity without engaging in thermonuclear self-destruction: Prime short-term goal. And one for which i've never had any talent.
Friday, September 19, 2014
Limit Bouldering
I'm gun' link to Mark Anderson's blog post on limit bouldering, so's i can easily access his list of hold sets for future reference. Also it's a mighty elucidating article on the subject.
Thursday, September 18, 2014
Campus'd
Probably a blessing i didn't have the "correct" large and medium rungs on my board. Did my workouts on routed 2 x 4s, which work out to be about 1/4" wider than the "large" Metolius rungs. So it wasn't as hard on my widdle pingers as it coulda been, but it allowed me to pay more attention to body position and the reaches. In other words, it was prolly more fun than it'd otherwise have been.
Even with only three campus sessions on my watered-down beginner's season, i've noticed gains. I'm really starting to get psyched to take this to some projects.
Now i gotta figure out how to do linked boulder circuits around the odd fact that none of the route setters at ye olde gym seem to be into setting problems between v3 and v8.
In fact, the more i cogitate on it, the cheaper those Moon holds seem...
Even with only three campus sessions on my watered-down beginner's season, i've noticed gains. I'm really starting to get psyched to take this to some projects.
Now i gotta figure out how to do linked boulder circuits around the odd fact that none of the route setters at ye olde gym seem to be into setting problems between v3 and v8.
In fact, the more i cogitate on it, the cheaper those Moon holds seem...
Wednesday, September 17, 2014
Moon Wall
Apparently there's nobody in the US licensed as seller of Moon holds. That is irritating beyond measure.
Went to order some Moon holds for the wall, and the cost would be about $150; only then it's $100 shipping. And apparently there's no way to get them from a supplier here. I don't know if that's because they stand to make a ton on shipping from the UK, or if they simply have no interest in selling holds to the states. Bizarre, really; but i suppose i've found out the hard way why Moon Walls are not more popular here. Neat idea, but when it costs more for holds for the wall than for a used helicopter to fly to the nearest crag, it's a bit prohibitive.
Very bummed am i.
Went to order some Moon holds for the wall, and the cost would be about $150; only then it's $100 shipping. And apparently there's no way to get them from a supplier here. I don't know if that's because they stand to make a ton on shipping from the UK, or if they simply have no interest in selling holds to the states. Bizarre, really; but i suppose i've found out the hard way why Moon Walls are not more popular here. Neat idea, but when it costs more for holds for the wall than for a used helicopter to fly to the nearest crag, it's a bit prohibitive.
Very bummed am i.
Friday, September 12, 2014
Down
Always downs... gotta live through 'em, and forget about 'em, and move on. Down at the moment is the feeling i'm training and trying to get "stronger" while the rest of our world is crumbling.
That's maybe a smidge over the top; but not by much, necessarily. I've gotta find another place to be. I don't know if that's just a job, or a move, or just what exactly, but my schedule has to change. She's going crazy. And i seem to have no control over any of that.
And i'm packing workouts into the cracks in the schedule.
And so every tiny thing that goes wrong, any little trough in what might be an upward-trending sine, and i feel crushed by failure-- like it's all a huge waste of time.
i guess this has been one of those weeks. I've actually seen some surprising upticks in my climbing-- even successes in my weight. But i've got off schedule by a bunch, and it squashes me. And that's stupid. It's not really the problem.
I just can't fix the real problem. Can't even quite figure out what it is.
That's maybe a smidge over the top; but not by much, necessarily. I've gotta find another place to be. I don't know if that's just a job, or a move, or just what exactly, but my schedule has to change. She's going crazy. And i seem to have no control over any of that.
And i'm packing workouts into the cracks in the schedule.
And so every tiny thing that goes wrong, any little trough in what might be an upward-trending sine, and i feel crushed by failure-- like it's all a huge waste of time.
i guess this has been one of those weeks. I've actually seen some surprising upticks in my climbing-- even successes in my weight. But i've got off schedule by a bunch, and it squashes me. And that's stupid. It's not really the problem.
I just can't fix the real problem. Can't even quite figure out what it is.
Thursday, September 4, 2014
Enough strength--- On to power!
The Trango hangboard turned out to be a very good investment. It's a prouder, chalkier, better-loved war machine now; and i've made some way happy progress. As mentioned in that other place, i've added from 10 to 15 lbs of resistance to all but one or two grips worked. Feel pretty good about that, even if i know it's all coming from neural awakening after having never used my muscles before. I could certainly wish i'd started this 8 or 10 years ago, but i'll take it. Finished strong and no injuries.
Now comes the real live potential injury: Campusing. Gotta say i'm a li'l intimidated--- but i'm also way excited. If i make it through the next 2.5 weeks without an injury, i should see a new level of climbing. WAY psyched!
As it's falling, the first campus work out is this saturday. But i work until after the gym is closed, so i won't be able to do a warm up of any kind. So i'm going to try to move it to friday. That's kinda pushing it after this HB workout, but we'll see how it goes.
Also it's time to start dieting in earnest. Weighed in at 198.0 just now. That's fer shur better'n 202, but i really haven't dropped any appreciable weight since starting. So on the one hand, that means i'm just straight-up, legitimately stronger than i was at first (and the HB gains are not just from dropping lard); but i also know my biggest and sickest gains're gunna come from losing weight.
I do not have the hang of this. I absolutely do not know how to lose weight. In fact, i wish i could find a reliable trainer to make me diet-- that'd be gold. Basic vague principles of dieting don't seem to do it for me. In other words, i can't just change what i'm eating and expect the lbs to flee: i'm gun' hafta count calories, and i suck at that. But i do think it'll be an easier process if i go old-school body-builder and cut out the alcohol and go with a super skeletal diet. If i can maintain the keg living on water, chicken and tuna, then i'm gonna check my thyroid.
Now comes the real live potential injury: Campusing. Gotta say i'm a li'l intimidated--- but i'm also way excited. If i make it through the next 2.5 weeks without an injury, i should see a new level of climbing. WAY psyched!
As it's falling, the first campus work out is this saturday. But i work until after the gym is closed, so i won't be able to do a warm up of any kind. So i'm going to try to move it to friday. That's kinda pushing it after this HB workout, but we'll see how it goes.
Also it's time to start dieting in earnest. Weighed in at 198.0 just now. That's fer shur better'n 202, but i really haven't dropped any appreciable weight since starting. So on the one hand, that means i'm just straight-up, legitimately stronger than i was at first (and the HB gains are not just from dropping lard); but i also know my biggest and sickest gains're gunna come from losing weight.
I do not have the hang of this. I absolutely do not know how to lose weight. In fact, i wish i could find a reliable trainer to make me diet-- that'd be gold. Basic vague principles of dieting don't seem to do it for me. In other words, i can't just change what i'm eating and expect the lbs to flee: i'm gun' hafta count calories, and i suck at that. But i do think it'll be an easier process if i go old-school body-builder and cut out the alcohol and go with a super skeletal diet. If i can maintain the keg living on water, chicken and tuna, then i'm gonna check my thyroid.
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